Camel meat makes Al-Yusra menu a welcome relief for Nairobi dining

In another life, I wanted to be a chef, or at least travel around the world tasting different world cuisines, but my Kisii and Adventist upbringing dealt this dream a fatal blow. My faith is rudely conservative on the culinary front, and being from continental Africa, I grew up with few varieties and almost zero spices.

This is the fate of most Kenyans when it comes to food.

In Nairobi, a continental city in a largely religious and food-conservative country, our choices are always limited. People mostly eat beef, mutton, or fish. Ugali, rice, and chapatti are the main starchy foods.

Except for rice that can be prepared in different ways, ugali remains a stodgy, uncharacteristic mess, and chapatti sometimes works as a charming alternative.

When it comes to meat, unlike other cultures like in the Far East and West Africa where they eat almost anything that walks or slithers, Kenyans rarely venture outside beef, mutton, chicken, and fish. We consume far less pork than neighbouring countries. Seafood is not commonplace in Nairobi.

Hence, Al-Yusra Restaurant’s addition of camel meat to their mainstream menu should be a welcome respite for those who like experimenting. Camel meat is certainly an exotic treat that some may instantly like, and some may take some time to acquire the taste.

Al-Yusra is a halal restaurant offering authentic Somali, Arabian, Ethiopian and Kenyan cuisine.

According to Mohamed Alioh, a Garissa-based writer, in several parts of northern Kenya, camel meat is considered an old-school treat.

“The flavour profile of camel meat resembles that of beef but is tastier and gamier. Depending on the cut, it can also differ in texture. Young camels have mild and tender meat, while older ones yield bold and richer varieties,” he says.

Medicinal purposes

Camel meat has traditionally been known for its medicinal purposes including enhancing immunity and aiding blood circulation in traditional medicine. The meat has a certain herbal feel to it.

I was looking for a way to define its taste. Beef can be indistinctly tasteless; the reason we have to cheat it with so many spices. Goat meat derived from animals reared in the right places (think of Mogotio or Kitui) has that tastier, saltier taste. Camel meat is like goat meat from the mentioned regions, only that it is chunkier, chewier, and richer in taste.

In areas where it is consumed culturally, camel meat holds very high significance. People relate it to hospitality, as it is served on occasions such as weddings, religious festivals, and community gatherings.

To have an experience that fully appreciates camel meat, dishes are usually prepared slowly through stews, grilled as kebabs, or roasted. Spices like garlic, cumin, and coriander enhance its flavour, while rice or flatbread accompanies camel pieces. The preparation methods emphasise the characteristic taste of the meat and keep it moist and soft.

Al-Yusra serves their ‘camelicious’ option fried with spices, garlic, and capsicum, but unlike beef whose taste is sometimes swallowed by spices, camel meat is distinct, and spices only enhance its taste. And to partake in it makes you feel like part of the Somali culinary culture.

In Somali culture, a man without a camel is not considered a “full man”. The more camels one has, the merrier. You could be a billionaire, but if you don’t have a single camel, a poor man with one camel will have a bigger sway over you in the community.

Away from the politics of camel ownership, its meat is worth savouring. First, there was camel milk, and the tender camel minced meat favoured for breakfast, but the ultimate killer would be the fried serving for lunch.

My favourite meats are goat meat (Somali arosto, aleso and dailo), well done roasted ribs, then kienyeji chicken (wet fry) with chapatti is my idea of heaven. For fish, lately, I am worried. Most of the fish comes from ponds or is imported from God knows where. Besides, our lakes are so polluted. I miss the good old fish straight from Lolwe. That is why fish lately does not taste like fish, neither does it have that distinct fish smell.

To this, I will add camel meat, until I get used to it.