Ramadan prayers: How fasting dawn to dusk unfolds in Eastleigh

In the streets of Eastleigh, Nairobi, the way of life changes during the holy month of Ramadan, with the community engaging in a cycle of devotion, work, and familial bonds,  from dawn till midnight.

For many, the day commences at 4:30 am with Suhuur, the pre-dawn meal that sustains fasting individuals until sunset. Some rise early to prepare Suhuur at home, while others seek out the few hotels open at this hour.

Muslims praying at Masjid Sahaba in Eastleigh. (Abdirahman Khalif)

By 5:20 am, Suhuur concludes, and some head to mosques for the Fajr prayer, while others, mostly women, offer their prayers in their homes.

As the day progresses, Eastleigh stirs to life, albeit at a slower pace compared to other days. Most businesses open later than usual, and hotels remain closed after 6 am, making finding a meal outside the home a challenge until after sunset. Despite this, many residents proceed with their daily activities, striving to make ends meet as they carry on with fasting and prayer.

Snacks displayed along Masjid Sunnah in California. These kinds of snacks are paraded along major mosques in Eastleigh from 6pm. (Photo: Abdirahman Khalif)

At 1 pm, the call to Duhur prayer beckons, and individuals pause to offer their midday prayers. By 2 pm, preparations for iftar, the evening meal to break the fast, begin in earnest. Families and hotels alike bustle with activity as women navigate crowded markets to buy ingredients for the evening's feast.

By 4 pm, after the Asar prayers, the streets are filled with people and cars, ahead of iftar. Street vendors selling iftar snacks line the sidewalks, their savory aromas enticing hungry passersby. The atmosphere becomes one of anticipation and excitement as the community eagerly awaits the Maghrib Adhan, signaling the end of the day's fast at 6:45 pm.

As the sun sets and Maghrib Adhan calls, Eastleigh transforms into a communal dining hall, with families and friends gathering to break their fast together.

One of the hotels in Eastleigh opens at 5 am. (Photo: Abdirahman Khalif)

Dates and sips of water mark the beginning of iftar, followed by a variety of delicious snacks, with samosas being the favorite for most people. After Maghrib prayers, households and hotels alike serve up proper meals to the people, helping them regain their energy.

After a brief rest, the night air fills with the melodious recitation of the Quran from mosque minarets as Muslims pray Isha prayers at 8 pm, followed by the commencement of Taraweeh prayers at 8:30 pm.

These special nightly prayers, performed during Ramadan, foster a sense of spiritual unity among worshippers as they engage in prolonged acts of devotion.

Muslims breaking their fast at the Kilimanjaro Hotel in Eastleigh. (Photo: Abdirahman Khalif)

By 10 pm, Taraweeh prayers draw to a close, and residents begin to wind down for the night. Some indulge in a late-night snack before retiring to bed by 11 pm, ready to rest and rejuvenate for the day ahead.

Despite the late hour, a few businesses, including shops and hotels, remain open to cater to the needs of the community, ensuring that essential services are accessible to all.

In Eastleigh, Ramadan not only signifies a period of fasting and spiritual reflection but also serves as a time for communal unity, familial bonds, and acts of generosity.