EU bans chemical used in gel nail polish over reproductive health risks

TPO works as a photoinitiator. It helps the polish set under ultraviolet or UV light. (Photo: Freepik)

By Maureen Kinyanjui
Tuesday, September 9, 2025

The decision has sent ripples through the beauty industry, where gel nail polishes are prized for their durability, glossy finish, and faster drying time compared to regular polishes.

The European Union (EU) has moved to ban a widely used chemical in gel nail polishes and some cosmetic products, citing health concerns over its effects on reproduction.

Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, or TPO, has been classified as a reproductive toxicant, prompting regulators to prohibit its manufacture, sale, and use across all EU member states starting this week.

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The decision has sent ripples through the beauty industry, where gel nail polishes are prized for their durability, glossy finish, and faster drying time compared to regular polishes.

TPO acts as a photoinitiator, triggering a chemical reaction that allows gel polish to harden when exposed to ultraviolet or LED light.

Many users prefer gel polish because it produces a harder texture and maintains its shine for longer than standard nail polish.

The ban means salons across Europe must remove products containing TPO and transition to alternatives.

The EU classified TPO as “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction” after animal studies showed potential reproductive toxicity.

In contrast, TPO remains legal and unrestricted in the United States, highlighting a major difference in regulatory approaches.

The EU uses a hazard-based method, which evaluates the inherent danger of a substance in isolation, while the U.S. applies a risk-based approach, considering both exposure and potential harm.

Gel nail polish works by forming a thin acrylic polymer film on the nail when cured under UV light. TPO plays a crucial role in this process, enabling the quick drying and long-lasting effects that make gel polish popular with consumers.

For many, nail care is not just cosmetic but also therapeutic, offering a sense of self-expression and confidence.

With the new ban, beauty enthusiasts and nail technicians must find substitutes that comply with EU safety standards while still delivering the quality and efficiency users expect.

The decision raises wider questions about chemical safety and why a product restricted in Europe continues to be widely available elsewhere, including Kenya, where similar products are in use.

As the beauty industry adapts, manufacturers and salon operators must balance consumer demand for long-lasting, glossy nails with the imperative of protecting health, illustrating how regulation and public safety are increasingly shaping the cosmetics market.